Well folks, the holiday season is
upon us and so time for celebrating with some bubbles. Now, I need to disclose
what may be an unpopular opinion: I don't love Sparklers. I prefer the complexity
and depth that red wines and some whites (e.g., Rieslings) can. I’m a
wine geek! What’d you expect? And at last night's tasting, somewhere
around Sparkler #7 I began experiencing palate fatigue and all of the sparklers
started tasting fairly similar to one another, besides
the occasional very sweet (e.g., Asti Spumante), the sparkling Shiraz, or the Veuve Clicquot Rich that was poured over slices of red
and green bell pepper (yes, you read that right).
Now I will say that I do appreciate a good Sparkler. A good
sparkler in my opinion has structure and successful integration of the relevant
elements like alcohol, sweetness, secondary and tertiary qualities, etc., which
makes for a seamless transition from beginning to finish on the palate. These
are the 2 sparklers that I found most appealing. Both of these Sparklers showed
excellent structure and balance.
Sparkler #1: NV Le Mesnil Sublime Rose (Cotes de Blanc,Sur Oger, Champagne, France): mostly Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this
Champagne is rare in that it is one of only six cooperative producers in
Champagne. Note that this bottle retails for $48.
Tasting Note: austere nose, chalk up front on the palate,
bone dry, very little fruit, excellent structure, very fine bubbles, long
finish.
My Rating: 91.
Sparkler #2: 2011 Argyle Brut (Willamette, Oregon): 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. From a cool-climate in a very
cool vintage.
Tasting Note: some
sweetness and very small amount of oak, overall great structure and integration
of the elements, good finish, fine bubbles.
Rating: 90. This retails for $23 at Market
Square Liquors.
Champagnes—the elite of the Sparkler
category—tend to be over-priced and I pride myself as someone who values a wine
with a good QPR (i.e., quality to price ratio).
If you agree you might want to check out a couple of solid value Proseccos or
Cavas sold almost anywhere around town, e.g., Segura Viudas Cava, Jaume Serra Cristalino Brut Cava, or La Marca Prosecco.
Feel free to leave a comment or contact me if
you have any questions: srmillard@gmail.com
Happy holidays!